Vionnet Resort 2015
Originally a French haute couture label founded by MadeleineVionnet in 1912, there is no other brand with a clearer DNA and
construction identity. Vionnet is credited as an innovator of bias-cut draping;
moving fashion of her time away from corsets and padding that distorted the
natural curves of a woman's body. She left a lasting impact on the world of
couture with her perfect balance between experimentation and elegance. The
signature handkerchief-ing, the bias, and the plissé – how could one reinvent
her ideas? Vionnet’s creative director, Goga Ashkenazi shows us how.
Ashkenazi has brought Vionnet into the now. If past Vionnet muses
included Greta Garbo, Katharine Hepburn, Joan Crawford, and Marlene Dietrich,
its modern-era icons would include Madonna, Natalie Portman, Cate Blanchett,
Carey Mulligan, and Zoe Saldana. Like Vionnet, Ashkenazi is not concerned
with being the “designer of the moment". The new Vionnet references the
label's storied heritage with collections of highly feminine yet contemporary
designs – think softly draped columns with strong-shoulder necklines and clever
hidden constructions with luxe fabrics.
The notion of flight fueled Ashkenazi’s imagination for Vionnet Resort
2015. There was a sense of lightness like wings of a dragonfly, the primary
source of inspiration. It appeared first as an abstract print, in intricate
webs of film over fluid fabrics. And then it morphed into a hybrid of
contrasting textures and colours. It was smooth.
What made it all the more rousing was the way the fabrics draped the
body. It was the bias-cut at work – a mainstay in the Vionnet repertoire. This
has always been the highlight but this time, Ashkenazi reaffirmed her
modern-day fairy tale. If Greta Garbo were living in present day, the Vionnet
wardrobe would no doubt be her uniform of choice.