Pre-Fall 2015

Tuesday, July 7, 2015

For Vionnet Pre-Fall 2015, creative director Goga Ashkenazi took a trip to Iceland to see the northern lights. The lights may suggest otherwise but Ashkenazi had other things on her mind.

Green was a starting point and they were like light in the sea of darks, visible but not blinding. Layering was key too. Fabrics overlapped one another like flutters of light streaming across the sky, intercepting each other as they glide across. Zippers had multi-coloured teeth made to mimic the elusive spectrum of the northern lights. But that wasn’t all.

Ashkenazi’s son who was on the trip had a part to play too. His interpretation of the northern lights in drawing became a print and embroidery in the collection.

On first impression, one might view it as childlike and ask how could a child’s drawing be applied onto a high fashion canvas? Seeing is believing. The result is a masterful piece of fragmented prints that when set in place on a fabric, provided a sparse splatter of faint visuals. They were like impending stars against the colours of the northern lights.

For a storied house like Vionnet, a burst of exuberant colours was far from the cards. Instead, Ashkenazi stood grounded with references to Vionnet’s signature aesthetic.

Drapes as usual were generous. The difference this time was that they seemed to have some sort of a free movement, as they found their way around dresses as if caressing a woman’s curves. Sometimes fabric overlays were tagged at certain points, some hanging by just a few pieces of thread. Restricted as they were like charged particles lodged within the night sky but full of fervour when unleashed.

And we see it all so clearly.

Editor's Picks



Links to this post:

Create a Link

<< Home

<< Older Posts | Newer Posts >>